Homefit Assessment 39AA7A5A

Your HomeFit online check report

Version: HomeFit v1.1

Thanks for completing your self-assessment.

The home looks like it needs some improvements before being HomeFit. Talk to your landlord or agent about getting some quotes and products installed to the recommendations below, then reassess. Once you’ve made the improvements, ask one of our assessors to do an independent HomeFit assessment.

  Looking Good Needs Work Un-answered
Dry
Mould - -
Kitchen ventilation - -
Bathroom ventilation - -
Groundsheet - -
Warm
Floor insulation - -
Roof insulation - -
Curtains & windows - -
Draughts - -
Heating - -
Safe & Efficient
Water heating - -
Shower - -
Lighting - -
Smoke alarms each floor - -
Bedroom smoke alarms - -

Looking good

Good to hear that the home is not damp or mouldy

No dampness or visible mould is a sign that this home is warm and dry. However, there may be mould in other less accessible places, and at certain times of the year. The best way to clean mould is to use a solution of 70mls of white vinegar and 30mls of water, spray it on affected areas, leave for up to an hour and then wipe off with a clean damp cloth. Keep an eye out especially in wardrobes and other enclosed spaces, and continue airing the home to remove stale, damp air.

The home has no sources of draughts

Great to hear the home has no major sources of draughts.

The home has a heat pump in the main living area

This is one of the more popular and energy efficient forms of heating. Heat pumps are recognised heaters under HomeFit and the Healthy Homes Standards as they are large, fixed, efficient heaters that are suitable for living areas and bedrooms in well-insulated homes. Make sure you know how to use them effectively.

The home has a gas hot water (storage) cylinder

Gas storage cylinders are accepted under HomeFit but they are relatively inefficient hot water systems because they are normally located outdoors.

Gas is a fossil fuel and therefore is non-renewable. Mains gas is more cost-effective and efficient than bottled gas. Ensure hot water supply pipes are insulated (lagged). You should not add a cylinder wrap because of the risk of fire. For more information see this Gen Less advice on hot water.

The showers probably have an acceptable flow rate

Try measuring the flow to make sure, and if it’s more than 9 litres/min, consider installing a low flow shower head or flow restrictor. Look for a shower head with a WELS (Water Efficiency Labelling Scheme) rating of 3 or more. For more information see this Energywise advice on hot water.

The home has at least one smoke alarm on each floor

Check that they are photoelectric and, if not, consider upgrading.

The home has smoke alarms either in each bedroom or within 3m of each bedroom

Check that they are photoelectric and, if not, consider upgrading.

Could use some work

The home does not have a kitchen rangehood

Having some kind of kitchen extract fan is a requirement of HomeFit and the Healthy Homes Standards. This could be a rangehood, ceiling, wall or window fan or under-bench extractor. All should ventilate directly outside.

Kitchen rangehoods allow moisture from cooking to be exhausted at the source, reducing the need to ventilate with opening windows and reducing the risk that cooking moisture migrates through the rest of the home.

To be effective, fans should be rated at more than 50 litres/second airflow (or have a fan ducting diameter of at least 150mm) and be located between 650mm and 900mm above the hob. At the very least, remember to open a window while cooking or to use a through-window or wall extractor fan. Use lids on pots when cooking to reduce moisture and save energy.

Not all bathrooms have extractor fans

Bathroom fans are one of the best things you can have to keep your home dry and warm and are a requirement of HomeFit and the Healthy Homes Standards. A supplier directory is provided in the report section.

To be effective, fans should have an airflow of at least 25 litres/second (or have a fan ducting diameter of at least 120mm), which should be enough to hold up an A4 piece of paper (or to bend a piece of paper if checking it against the outside grille). If you get one installed ensure that the fan ventilates to the outside, either through a wall, or if in a ceiling, through ducting connected to a grille on an outside wall or under the eaves.

Ideally the fan should be located above the shower. Switch on the fan each time you take a shower or bath, and make sure it runs for at least 15 minutes after all water has drained away. A simple timer connected to the light switch can make this easier to manage and ensure everyone uses it.

The crawl space under the home does not have a groundsheet (ground moisture barrier)

HomeFit and the Healthy Home Standards recommend installing a groundsheet. A DIY install can cost as little as $200. See the EDA Factsheet on ground moisture barriers for step by step instructions.

Insulation companies can install it for you relatively cheaply, especially if you also need underfloor insulation done at the same time.

While you're looking under the floor check that air vents in the walls of the crawl space are free from vegetation or dirt building up outside. Air vents are often too small, blocked or not in sufficient numbers to create good cross-ventilation under a home.

You’re not sure how much floor insulation the home has

Get a qualified insulation company to check for you before you order your HomeFit assessment. A supplier directory is provided at the end of this report.

You’re not sure how much roof insulation the home has

Get a qualified insulation company to check for you. To pass HomeFit and the Healthy Homes Standards you need at least 120mm of roof insulation but, if you're installing new insulation, we recommend at least R3.6 in most of the North Island and R4.0 in the South Island and Central Plateau. A supplier directory is provided at the end of this report.

You may have downlights that require a gap in the insulation. These will need to be upgraded to meet the HomeFit standard, as they could reduce the effectiveness of your insulation (see an installer or electrician). 

 

double-glazing

The home does not have 'good' curtains or double glazing

HomeFit requires either 'good' curtains or double glazing in the living spaces and bedrooms. This home has neither.

Curtains are the unsung heroes of modern, warm, energy-efficient homes. By “good” we mean at least two layers, full length to the floor, and/or closed at the top (by a pelmet, the ceiling, or tight-fitting track). The thickness of the material is not as important as the number of layers, as it’s the air that’s trapped between the layers that gives the curtains the insulation ability.

Good curtains trap cold air behind them meaning less likelihood of cold draughts from the windows.

For those areas where full-length curtains are inconvenient or just not possible (above heaters or kitchen benches for instance), we recommend Roman or cellular - sometimes called honeycomb - blinds. These should still be tight fitting on the side and against the sill and have at least two layers of blind material. Venetian blinds (whether wooden or aluminium) or shutters are ineffective at keeping in warmth (and therefore don’t pass HomeFit), but have their uses in managing overheating, glare and privacy.

For more information, see the Eco Design Advisor Curtains factsheet.

The home also does not have double glazing. Double glazing can double the performance of single glazing and will make a room noticeably more comfortable in winter. For more information, go to the Gen Less Double Glazing page. A supplier directory is provided at the end of this report.

Cheaper alternatives include window insulation kits, a DIY install, where you stick plastic film to the inside of a window frame to create a still air space between the plastic film and the cold glass - a form of secondary glazing. Kits can be purchased from DIY stores and environment centres.

Sounds like the lighting in this home isn’t very energy efficient

Time for an upgrade. Replacement LED bulbs are widely available and very good value for money, especially in areas of the home where the lighting is used a lot like in the main living space and kitchen.

You may have downlights that require a gap in the insulation. These will need to be upgraded to meet the HomeFit standard, as they could reduce the effectiveness of your insulation (see an installer or electrician). 

 

We don’t all have the time or expertise to fix up our home.

Here’s a handy list of professionals who can help make your home HomeFit. Some can even certify your home when they’re done!

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